Fly Tying: The 'Precious'

Reid Martin

Start with a Mustad size 4 (34007) hook in stainless steel. Wrap red flat waxed nylon from just behind the eye to the hook bend. At the hook bend tie in a single orange Marabou feather. Cut the feather’s vein off just short of where you want the eyes to go on the shank. Figure 1 shows the feather trimmed to expose only ¼ inch of the plumb (if not cut short enough the fly won’t sink properly.)

At the hook bend tie in tan Neer Hair or suitable material, laying the Neer Hair along the hook shank to add bulk to the body as in figure 2.

Twist the Neer Hair into a cord and wrap to just behind where the eyes are to go, see figure 3. By wrapping the Neer Hair around the shank as a cord, it should create better water movement as you strip it.

Tie in the Bead Chain Eyes, I use 5/32 diameter nickel. See figure 4.

For the wings I use about thirty strands of white buck tail with about six strands of pearl Flashabou Accent, tied in at the bead chain eyes extending back twice the length of the hook. Figure 5 shows the buck tail and Flashabou Accent in place.

The final wing material is used is olive Chinese Saddles. I only use 1 ½ inches of the tip of the feather, tying in two on each side, lay up at the same angle as the buck tail. Figure 6 shows a finished fly without the optional weed guard.

Even though the fly swims hook up, it’s susceptible to getting weeds caught on it during the retrieve. I’ve added a weed guard using twenty pound test Mason Hard Type nylon monofilament leader material. Cut off a short length of monofilament and tie in one end in front of the eyes then loop it over and tie in the other side (this way the mono doesn’t have to be cut exact) to make a 1inch high loop. Whip the thread on and then trim the top of the loop creating two prongs as shown in figure 7.


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